#283 Autumn 2022

There just wasn’t room in the last issue to squeeze in all the articles about linen, so in this issue we have Catherine O’Hara’s examination of the Old Bleach Linen Company’s attempt to counter the decline in the industry through innovation. Ultimately unsuccessful, the company tried to counteract changes in consumer preference for ‘new’ textiles and the impact of globalisation. In Japan the designation of Important Intangible Cultural Property highlights vulnerable crafts, such as shifu, paper textiles. Complex techniques that were formerly widespread now rely on a handful of specialists to maintain skills. Eleanor Burkett has been fascinated by shifu for many years and introduces us to the techniques.

There are two articles about traditional handweaving in India, the production of Jamalkalam rugs in southern India and the handwoven cloth tradition which falls within the broad term khadi. Undermined by British industrialisation in the nineteenth century, handweaving was once a mainstay of rural economies and handspun, handwoven cloth became symbolic of Independence.

For dyers there is a novel suggestion – use hair dyes! Easy to obtain and, as Jan Richardson shows, capable of producing exciting results. And who could resist Heather Galindo’s popsicle swatches? Behind the colourful results is a meticulous process of generating a reference set, a reminder that consistent results rely on a rigorously systematic approach which saves time and effort when dyeing for projects.

As part of the celebration of seventy years of the Journal, Carolyn Griffiths researched some of the companies advertising in early issues. Also on a historic theme, Jill Riley visited the Warner Textile Archive and gives us a glimpse of the riches that it holds. Worth a visit if you are in the area.

Finally, we include Jennie Parry’s appreciation of Hilary Turner, past Chair of the Journal Committee, Association Chair and a major contributor to the Association and its events over many years.

Hilary Miller, Chair, Journal Editorial Committee


Shiroishi Shifu – An Important Intangible Cultural PropertyEleanor Burkett8
Dyeing Experiments Using Hair Dyes pdfJan Richardson12
Two Hundred and Eighty-Three JournalsCarolyn Griffiths14
The Old Bleach Linen Company’s Technical Innovations and Creative Responses in Ulster’s Interwar Linen IndustryDr Catherine O’Hara17
Jamakalam Rug Weaving in IndiaB. Poongodi and G. Ramakrishnan20
Stick Spinning ExplorationJinty Knowling Lentier22
Khadi – The Weaving Tradition and Movement of Indian Village CraftSubhankar Sengupta24
The Spindle: A Practical ProjectChloé Thiriet28
Remembering Hilary TurnerJennie Parry31
Popsicle Swatches – A Conversation Between Heather Galindo, Dyer, and Linda MoreLinda More32
Warner & Sons and The Warner Textile ArchiveJill Riley36